Street Trends and High Fashion

Zoot Suits:

this picture was taken in the 1940s

Cab Calloway “Tin Tan” was a famous actor, singer and comedian in Mexico in the 40s and 50s. He used to wear the “Pachuco style” (Zoot suits) and frequently employed “pachuco slangs” in his movies, making the Mexican American “pachuco” language famous in Mexico.The word “pachuco” comes from the Nahuatl dialect: Pachoacan; this word means, “Place where is governed”, therefore the pachuco gang used to governed some places where people can respect them.“Pachuco” or “Zoot Suiters” is the name of the stereotype that defines a young Mexican American (Chicano) that emerged in the mid 20’s wearing flashy clothes, which consisted of a suit with pants too loose, but tight around the waist and ankles, a long jacket with wide lapels and broad shoulders and padded.

Source: Wikipedia

Fall 2008 Paris/ Milan shows: Dior HommeDesigners went for wider silhouettes in the style of 30s zoot suits

John Galliano Spring 2002 RTW---Checkered zoot suit

To me, zoot suits look old-fashioned but cute. I'm not a big fan of it, but if someday I see someone wear zoot suit walking on the street, I'd admire him from my deep heart : )

Teddy Boys:

Tom, Dave, Steve and Keith. Southend-on-Sea and Rochford Essex Teddy Boys 1972

This subculture style started in London in the 50s, and is recognized by young men and women wearing clothes inspired by the Edwardian period styles introduced after WWII. Teddy Boy clothing consisted of: long drape jackets, usually in dark shades, sometimes with velvet trim collar and pocket flaps; high-waisted "drainpipe" trousers, often showing brightly coloured socks. Favoured footwear were chunky brogues, large crepe-soled shoes, often suede and high-necked loose collar on a white shirt.

This Spanish brand , Armand Basi, their women F/W 09 collection, took a strong inspiration from London's Teddy Boy look.

Sweet interpretation of Teddy Boy Look.Topshop Unique, Spring 2009 RTW

Beatniks:

Audrey Hepburn in beatnik look in 1955

Beatniks are part of a sociocultural movement in the 1950s and early 1960s that subscribed to an anti-materialistic lifestyle in the wake of World War II. (Wikipedia)The typical beatnik look characterized by loose-fitting hooped T-shirt, black beret, goatee beard, sunglasses, poetry book in hand; for chicks, subtract the beard and add deep fringe and heavy eye make-up. (Retrogalaxy) Fashions for women included black leotards and wearing their hair long, straight and unadorned in a rebellion against the middle-class culture of beauty salons.

Source:Wikipedia

Beatniks on High Runway- Fall 2008 RTW Marc by Marc Jacobs

Mods:

60's mods style

(In this picture: Gemma Ward, Agyness Deyn, Caroline Trentini)

Mod fashion started in London, in the 60s. A small group of young men and a few girls started to look to French and Italian cool, combined with American Ivy League style to create a uniquely British youth fashion.

Female mods dressed androgynously with short haircuts, men's trousers or skirts, flat shoes and little makeup. In addition, they pushed the boundaries of parental tolerance with their miniskirts.

Male mods adopted a smooth, sophisticated look that emphasized tailor-made Italian suits (sometimes white) with narrow lapels, mohair clothes, thin ties, button-down collar shirts, wool or cashmere sweater , and pointed-toe leather shoes.

Source:Wikipedia

Cynthia Steffe's Spring 2008 collection was full of tons of pieces that could easily be worn off the runway as well as on. The collection featured bright spring colors and crisp neutrals mixed with the mod-style color blocks and prints. Solid pieces were constructed in eye-popping colors that are very versatile and beautiful for spring. 60s-inspired mod looks consisted of geometric shapes and prints in neutral, pastel and primary colors.

Rag and Bone RTW Spring 2009


Hippies:

this pic was taken in the 60s, this couple were wearing hippie style clothing in front of their organic farm.

The hippie subculture was originally a youth movement that began in the United States during the mid-1960s and spread around the world. Since then, many aspects of hippie culture have been assimilated by mainstream society and had a major effect on culture, influencing popular music, television, film, literature, and the arts.

Source:Wikipedia

Hippie fashion statement included long haired, sandals or sometimes even barefoot, colorful tie-dyed shirts, a vest, bell-bottom pants, and several other accessories. For the ladies, the picture may also consist of colorful peasant blouses and long, full skirts.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2009 collection

Rich Hippie Look --NY Fashion Week Spring 2009 Runway
Matthew Williamson ( left), Diane von Furstenberg (center), Anna Sui (right)

I think the second picture shows great patterns with a more modern twist on the Hippie look. And I think the Anna Sui shows a cute way of hippie look, I like that one : )

Disco:

A subculture based on dance music in the 1960s and 1970s, in NYC.

Disco looks began in the 1970s and was memorable for its hot pants look and Spandex tops. Shiny clinging Lycra stretch disco pants in hot strident shiny colours with stretch sequin bandeau tops were often adaptations of professional modern dance wear that found itself making an impact in discos as disco dancing became serious. Gold lame, leopard skin and stretch halter jumpsuits and white clothes that glowed in Ultra Violet lights capture the 70s Disco fashion perfectly.

Disco inspired Shiny Jacketfrom, Louis Vuitton spring 2009 RTW

Disco Shiny Silver Synthetic Fabric, Emilio Pucci Fall 2008 RTW

Punk:

"How to Look Punk" 1977 in USA

Punk first emerged in the mid 1970s in London as an anarchic and aggressive movement. Punk fashion is the styles of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewelry, and body modifications of the punk subculture. The style characterized by black leather rocker jackets, tight jeans, studs, tartan kilts, chain and belt, and combat boots.

Talking about Punk, I'll never forget Vivienne Westwood.

Punk as a style succeeded even more when Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren formerly Malcolm Edwards, publicized the ideas through their joint design ventures. McLaren launched the 'Sex Pistols' Punk music group. The punk group wore clothes from a shop called 'Sex' that Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren opened on the Kings Road, London. They sold leather and rubber fetish goods, especially bondage trousers. Later the shop was renamed Seditionaries.
Not long after, Westwood launched alone renaming the same shop as 'World's End'. Westwood was soon translating her ideas into the fresher Pirate and Romantic looks. The collections were innovative, but were spoken of as unwearable, yet so often other designers picked up on ideas she had instigated and soon started another new trend.
In later years as her talent developed, her moods and methods changed. She mastered tailoring techniques combined with flair, frivolity and sexuality creating new looks that others copied. With a long stream of firsts behind her, Vivienne Westwood is now considered to be one of the most innovative designers of the 20th century.

Source:Fashion-Era

Vivienne Westwood Men F/W 2009 collection

Gareth Pugh Men F/W 2009 Collection

(Pugh combated the gloomy economic atmosphere with a medieval-inspired nouveau punk collection. Anything but bleak, the collection shone with metallic tops, pants, and iridescent spiked embellishments.)

Hip Hop:

a hip-hop look at new york

From the 1970s where hip hop was born on the streets of New York's African American communities until now, hip hop has influenced millions the world over. In fact this once subculture has become a part of American culture by attracting mainstream status.

As the late 80s approached, low and high-top fades, jeans, designer labels, and the preppy look came into hip hop fashion.

Rick Owens Men collection S/S 2010. "Techno Hip hop meets classic Rick Owens."



DSquared Men S/S 2009 Hip-Hop Fashion Show Runway



Knotted by Yourself:

Tied up or down, loose or tight, artistically or clipped, a little knot will surely give hum-drum winter layers a little twist and shout. It's a trend we can DIY. This look has been making its mark in Northern Europe.

pic is taken in London,2008


The "Knotted by Yourself" on runway is getting love from the street trend. Below, from left: Issa, Noir, Roksanda Ilincic, Issa, photos via nymag.com.

Picture Sweaters:

below, from left: Eley Kishimoto, Issa, Ann-Sofie Back, Peter Jensen, photos via nymag.com.

the lady in the pic is wearing a panda picture sweater, so cute, and the sleeves are so special,too!

(nogoodforme.com)

fashion design influenced by historical artistic styles

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 1996 collection--
Inspired by the 17 century French essayist La Rochefoucault.








Stella McCartney Spring 2006 collection--


inspired by postmodern American artist Jeff Koons






Anna Sui Fall 2008 collection--


inspired by American Indians of the Pacific Northwest, from the color schemes, velvet flower headpieces, beaded necklaces, and paisley tights everything is American Indian inspired.





D&G Fall 2009 collection--


in the collection, Dolce and Gabbna paid tribut to two of the most recognized fashion and pop culture icons of the time, Marilyn Monroe and Minni Mouse.




Alexander McQueen Fall 2009 collection--

men in 19th Century look


it has Dickens Novel/19th Century inspired look



Christian Dior S/S 2007 collection--

Japan was the theme of the Dior 2007 Spring/Summer Haute Couture Collection in Paris.

This is a Japanese-inspired Christian Dior creation at the 40th Anniversary Golden Compass Party in Cannes.

Genealogy of Vests

Genealogy of Vests

The first vest was introduced by English King, Charles II on October 7, 1666. At the time, vest was a simple straight cut, and close fitting garment made from black cloth with a white silk lining. Promoted personally by the king, it was soon popular with everyone. But the political purpose was to undermine French fashion influence in England and by the vests simple lines was to defy the extravagant dictates of Versailles.

Late 17th century vest 　 　 　

17th century vest

The vest was based on a style brought back to England by visitors to the Pesian court of Shah Abbas. That model had sleeves and was longer than the coat worn over it. The vest evolved shorter to above the knee, then to mid-thigh, to the top of the thigh, and finally by 1790 to the waistline. It became sleeveless around the 1750’s.

Men's 18th Century vests

The vest was an essential part of a gentleman's wardrobe in the 19th Century. It was only ever dispensed with by men doing hard manual labor--though they often sported one as well.

In the 1860s, the day vest was also often fairly low cut with a broad shawl collar. Comes with Pewter buttons. Does not come with pockets.


From the 1870s on, vests tended to be black or white for wear with frock coats, morning coats or evening dress coats, which of course, were also black by that time. When worn with a sack suit, they would be of a color to match the suit. Evening vests were cut low to show off the shirt.

It has a rounded waistcoat style lapel and four front pockets, plus another pocket inside.

Early 19th century vests

Late 19th century vests

There are a few points of difference between 20th Century vests and 19th Century vests. 19th Century vests usually (though not always) had lapels, either in a shawl or notched style. They also nearly always had a lower hem that was parallel to the ground, rather than the modern vest which tapers downward in front.

1912's vest

1930's vest

1970's vest

The decline in the vest as fashion in the early 20th century were probably due to improvements in central heating, the emergence of the sweater and wartime clothes rationing.