2009年7月30日 星期四

Street Trends and High Fashion

Zoot Suits:
this picture was taken in the 1940s

Cab Calloway “Tin Tan” was a famous actor, singer and comedian in Mexico in the 40s and 50s. He used to wear the “Pachuco style” (Zoot suits) and frequently employed “pachuco slangs” in his movies, making the Mexican American “pachuco” language famous in Mexico.The word “pachuco” comes from the Nahuatl dialect: Pachoacan; this word means, “Place where is governed”, therefore the pachuco gang used to governed some places where people can respect them.“Pachuco” or “Zoot Suiters” is the name of the stereotype that defines a young Mexican American (Chicano) that emerged in the mid 20’s wearing flashy clothes, which consisted of a suit with pants too loose, but tight around the waist and ankles, a long jacket with wide lapels and broad shoulders and padded.
Source: Wikipedia
Fall 2008 Paris/ Milan shows: Dior HommeDesigners went for wider silhouettes in the style of 30s zoot suits

John Galliano Spring 2002 RTW---Checkered zoot suit



To me, zoot suits look old-fashioned but cute. I'm not a big fan of it, but if someday I see someone wear zoot suit walking on the street, I'd admire him from my deep heart : )

Teddy Boys:
Tom, Dave, Steve and Keith. Southend-on-Sea and Rochford Essex Teddy Boys 1972


This subculture style started in London in the 50s, and is recognized by young men and women wearing clothes inspired by the Edwardian period styles introduced after WWII. Teddy Boy clothing consisted of: long drape jackets, usually in dark shades, sometimes with velvet trim collar and pocket flaps; high-waisted "drainpipe" trousers, often showing brightly coloured socks. Favoured footwear were chunky brogues, large crepe-soled shoes, often suede and high-necked loose collar on a white shirt.
This Spanish brand , Armand Basi, their women F/W 09 collection, took a strong inspiration from London's Teddy Boy look.


Sweet interpretation of Teddy Boy Look.Topshop Unique, Spring 2009 RTW

Beatniks:
Audrey Hepburn in beatnik look in 1955

Beatniks are part of a sociocultural movement in the 1950s and early 1960s that subscribed to an anti-materialistic lifestyle in the wake of World War II. (Wikipedia)The typical beatnik look characterized by loose-fitting hooped T-shirt, black beret, goatee beard, sunglasses, poetry book in hand; for chicks, subtract the beard and add deep fringe and heavy eye make-up. (Retrogalaxy) Fashions for women included black leotards and wearing their hair long, straight and unadorned in a rebellion against the middle-class culture of beauty salons.
Source:Wikipedia

Beatniks on High Runway- Fall 2008 RTW Marc by Marc Jacobs


Mods:
60's mods style

(In this picture: Gemma Ward, Agyness Deyn, Caroline Trentini)

Mod fashion started in London, in the 60s. A small group of young men and a few girls started to look to French and Italian cool, combined with American Ivy League style to create a uniquely British youth fashion.
Female mods dressed androgynously with short haircuts, men's trousers or skirts, flat shoes and little makeup. In addition, they pushed the boundaries of parental tolerance with their miniskirts.

Male mods adopted a smooth, sophisticated look that emphasized tailor-made Italian suits (sometimes white) with narrow lapels, mohair clothes, thin ties, button-down collar shirts, wool or cashmere sweater , and pointed-toe leather shoes.
Source:Wikipedia

Cynthia Steffe's Spring 2008 collection was full of tons of pieces that could easily be worn off the runway as well as on. The collection featured bright spring colors and crisp neutrals mixed with the mod-style color blocks and prints. Solid pieces were constructed in eye-popping colors that are very versatile and beautiful for spring. 60s-inspired mod looks consisted of geometric shapes and prints in neutral, pastel and primary colors.

Rag and Bone RTW Spring 2009


Hippies:

this pic was taken in the 60s, this couple were wearing hippie style clothing in front of their organic farm.


The hippie subculture was originally a youth movement that began in the United States during the mid-1960s and spread around the world. Since then, many aspects of hippie culture have been assimilated by mainstream society and had a major effect on culture, influencing popular music, television, film, literature, and the arts.
Source:Wikipedia

Hippie fashion statement included long haired, sandals or sometimes even barefoot, colorful tie-dyed shirts, a vest, bell-bottom pants, and several other accessories. For the ladies, the picture may also consist of colorful peasant blouses and long, full skirts.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2009 collection


Rich Hippie Look --NY Fashion Week Spring 2009 Runway
Matthew Williamson ( left), Diane von Furstenberg (center), Anna Sui (right)



I think the second picture shows great patterns with a more modern twist on the Hippie look. And I think the Anna Sui shows a cute way of hippie look, I like that one : )
Disco:

A subculture based on dance music in the 1960s and 1970s, in NYC.


Disco looks began in the 1970s and was memorable for its hot pants look and Spandex tops. Shiny clinging Lycra stretch disco pants in hot strident shiny colours with stretch sequin bandeau tops were often adaptations of professional modern dance wear that found itself making an impact in discos as disco dancing became serious. Gold lame, leopard skin and stretch halter jumpsuits and white clothes that glowed in Ultra Violet lights capture the 70s Disco fashion perfectly.

Disco inspired Shiny Jacketfrom, Louis Vuitton spring 2009 RTW


Disco Shiny Silver Synthetic Fabric, Emilio Pucci Fall 2008 RTW



Punk:

"How to Look Punk" 1977 in USA


Punk first emerged in the mid 1970s in London as an anarchic and aggressive movement. Punk fashion is the styles of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewelry, and body modifications of the punk subculture. The style characterized by black leather rocker jackets, tight jeans, studs, tartan kilts, chain and belt, and combat boots.

Talking about Punk, I'll never forget Vivienne Westwood.

Punk as a style succeeded even more when Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren formerly Malcolm Edwards, publicized the ideas through their joint design ventures. McLaren launched the 'Sex Pistols' Punk music group. The punk group wore clothes from a shop called 'Sex' that Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren opened on the Kings Road, London. They sold leather and rubber fetish goods, especially bondage trousers. Later the shop was renamed Seditionaries.
Not long after, Westwood launched alone renaming the same shop as 'World's End'. Westwood was soon translating her ideas into the fresher Pirate and Romantic looks. The collections were innovative, but were spoken of as unwearable, yet so often other designers picked up on ideas she had instigated and soon started another new trend.
In later years as her talent developed, her moods and methods changed. She mastered tailoring techniques combined with flair, frivolity and sexuality creating new looks that others copied. With a long stream of firsts behind her, Vivienne Westwood is now considered to be one of the most innovative designers of the 20th century.
Source:Fashion-Era

Vivienne Westwood Men F/W 2009 collection



Gareth Pugh Men F/W 2009 Collection


(Pugh combated the gloomy economic atmosphere with a medieval-inspired nouveau punk collection. Anything but bleak, the collection shone with metallic tops, pants, and iridescent spiked embellishments.)

Hip Hop:

a hip-hop look at new york


From the 1970s where hip hop was born on the streets of New York's African American communities until now, hip hop has influenced millions the world over. In fact this once subculture has become a part of American culture by attracting mainstream status.

As the late 80s approached, low and high-top fades, jeans, designer labels, and the preppy look came into hip hop fashion.

Rick Owens Men collection S/S 2010. "Techno Hip hop meets classic Rick Owens."



DSquared Men S/S 2009 Hip-Hop Fashion Show Runway



Knotted by Yourself:

Tied up or down, loose or tight, artistically or clipped, a little knot will surely give hum-drum winter layers a little twist and shout. It's a trend we can DIY. This look has been making its mark in Northern Europe.
pic is taken in London,2008


The "Knotted by Yourself" on runway is getting love from the street trend. Below, from left: Issa, Noir, Roksanda Ilincic, Issa, photos via nymag.com.

Picture Sweaters:

below, from left: Eley Kishimoto, Issa, Ann-Sofie Back, Peter Jensen, photos via nymag.com.


the lady in the pic is wearing a panda picture sweater, so cute, and the sleeves are so special,too!

(nogoodforme.com)

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