2009年7月13日 星期一

Genealogy of Vests

Genealogy of Vests

The first vest was introduced by English King, Charles II on October 7, 1666. At the time, vest was a simple straight cut, and close fitting garment made from black cloth with a white silk lining. Promoted personally by the king, it was soon popular with everyone. But the political purpose was to undermine French fashion influence in England and by the vests simple lines was to defy the extravagant dictates of Versailles.

Late 17th century vest      

17th century vest


The vest was based on a style brought back to England by visitors to the Pesian court of Shah Abbas. That model had sleeves and was longer than the coat worn over it. The vest evolved shorter to above the knee, then to mid-thigh, to the top of the thigh, and finally by 1790 to the waistline. It became sleeveless around the 1750’s.


Men's 18th Century vests

The vest was an essential part of a gentleman's wardrobe in the 19th Century. It was only ever dispensed with by men doing hard manual labor--though they often sported one as well.


In the 1860s, the day vest was also often fairly low cut with a broad shawl collar. Comes with Pewter buttons. Does not come with pockets.


From the 1870s on, vests tended to be black or white for wear with frock coats, morning coats or evening dress coats, which of course, were also black by that time. When worn with a sack suit, they would be of a color to match the suit. Evening vests were cut low to show off the shirt.

It has a rounded waistcoat style lapel and four front pockets, plus another pocket inside.



Early 19th century vests


Late 19th century vests


There are a few points of difference between 20th Century vests and 19th Century vests. 19th Century vests usually (though not always) had lapels, either in a shawl or notched style. They also nearly always had a lower hem that was parallel to the ground, rather than the modern vest which tapers downward in front.


1912's vest

1930's vest

1970's vest



































































































The decline in the vest as fashion in the early 20th century were probably due to improvements in central heating, the emergence of the sweater and wartime clothes rationing.

















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































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